Hedi Slimane takes the club kid aesthetic to new heights in his Tik Tok-influenced Celine menswear show.
By Juno Kelly.
After sitting out the montage of digital menswear shows that took place early this month, Celine staged its latest homme show, aptly titled The Dancing Kid, off-calendar on July 29th, both on their website and various social media platforms.
The house, which has been attempting to cater to a younger demographic since Hedi Slimane’s arrival, is the latest brand to jump on the Tik Tok bandwagon. The house’s current face is 18-year-old Tik Toker Noen Eubanks, whose ‘90s locks, lanky frame, and scruffy style set the tone for Celine’s latest collection, which moves away from the tailoring synonymous with Slimane toward an unkempt skater boy aesthetic.
The runway was held on the Circuit Du Castellet’s meandering motorsports racecourse, which models (with a similar style to that of Eubanks) sauntered around to a custom-made rendition of Tiagz’s – a rapper and producer who also rose to prominence at the hands of Tik Tok’s viral affinity – They Call Me Tiago.
Although the clothes themselves drew parallels to the ‘90s club kids of yesteryear, the press release revealed that Slimane was very much inspired by the youth of today. Described as “a ‘documentary’ collection spanning eboys and current skate culture, a candid portrait of a generation,” the show was designed to pay homage to the Gen Z-ers who “took advantage of the confinement and isolation” imposed by the lockdown.
In keeping with Slimane’s signature gender-bending spin and the dissection of gender roles at the hands of Gen Z, plaid kilts were donned over jeans, handbags were carried alongside traditionally masculine ensembles, and sparkles were strewn over the occasional helmet, serving as a nod to the show’s sport-centric location.
Ski-style beanie hats and bucket hats were the dominant headgear, often with seemingly unkempt hair of varying hues sprouting underneath. Lacerated jeans, embellished Celine logo varsity jackets, and vintage-look Hawaiian shirts ensued, resulting in a refreshingly wearable collection.
The off-calendar show suits Celine. It separates the house from the traditional fashion week calendar that has lost much of its clout among their desired Gen-Z audience, and endows the runways with an air of rebellion akin to that of the clothes.
Slimane, however, is nothing if not unpredictable; for all we know, next season could see a return to boyish tailoring, aviator sunglasses, and their usual coveted spot at the epicenter of Paris Fashion Week.